Celebrate Mother’s Day in style with super-dry fizz

Mother’s Day in the UK is early this year. Easter is early and Mother’s Day here is on the third Sunday before Easter. With origins going back to the Middle Ages, it is a great time to celebrate the ‘mother figures’ in our lives and thank them for all they do.
By Richard Esling
Published 5th Mar 2024, 14:49 BST
Some dry fizz for Mother's DaySome dry fizz for Mother's Day
Some dry fizz for Mother's Day

As with all celebrations, sadly there is over-commercialisation, but a low-key family get-together or quiet meal, either out or at home, is an appropriate way to show our appreciation. Sparkling wine is also very appropriate, making any occasion just that little bit more special.

Currently, there is a move towards drier styles of sparkling wine, both in the champagne region and in other parts of the world where these types of wine are produced. Traditional method sparkling wines, which have the secondary fermentation, which produces the bubbles, taking place in the bottle, are by far the best quality, the yeasty deposits creating deeper and more complex flavours in the wine. Part of the process in the traditional method is called ‘Dosage’, when a small amount of sugar is added to the completely dry wine just before the bottle is corked.

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This is where the tendency for drier styles comes in, as the sugar added is reduced or even not added at all. Its all about balance and the winemaker will determine what is correct for his wine to show at its best. Brut designates a dry sparkling wine, but now there is Extra Brut, Ultra Brut and Brut Zero!

Graham Beck Ultra Brut 2017 was previously called Brut Zero and is crafted without the use of additional sugar in the dosage. This allows the exceptional intrinsic qualities of the wine and its terroir to shine through more clearly. It also requires exceptional winemaking skills, as there is no room for error in this style of wine. High quality juice is required in excellent vintages, combined with extended time on the lees in bottle – for this wine 5ive to six years. This is a first-class South African sparkler from a top winemaker, made from 67% Chardonnay and 33% Pinot Noir. Toasted brioche and lemon zest on the nose, with a rich and complex palate. A creamy, dry finish with great length and fine mousse. £25 per bottle from Harvey Nichols or online specialists Frontier Fine Wines.

Back to Europe, the crémant sparkling wines are all made by the traditional method (same method as champagne). One of the less commonly encountered regions for these wines is the mountainous Savoie in the French Alps. Crémant de Savoie Brut Zero NV is made by Anne-Sophie and Jean-François Quénard, from 60% of the local Jacquère variety combined with equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Delicately aromatic, with hints of lemon zest and grapefruit, light, fresh, crisp, with a fine, lively mousse and refreshing bone-dry finish. Fabulous aperitif or with delicately flavoured dishes. £20.81 from The Wine Society.

From what is perhaps the world’s ultimate quality terroir for sparkling wines – the Grand Cru vineyards of champagne - comes a wine from a small family producer, Champagne P. Louis Martin Grand Cru Extra Brut, based in the wonderfully named village of Bouzy – one of only 17 villages with grand cru status. Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, the dosage is very low, giving a very dry style. Refined and elegant with great class, fine mousse and great depth of flavour with fresh brioche and puff pastry aromas. £34.81 from The Wine Society (£29 if you purchase a case of 6).